SWAT VALLEY: WHY TOO MANY EPITHETS?

PROF WAQAR HUSSAIN

Swat is known as Paradise on Earth; Valley of Kings; Switzerland of Pakistan; Land of Stupas; Fare Dwelling Place (Aryans said); some says Cradle of Civilization; Maye Gulfam (wine of flowers); Ghazal of Mir; Rubyas of Khiam; story of Alif Laila; etc. Too many names for a single Valley make one curious to know the reason of this poly nomenclature. To me, SWAT is an abbreviation of Scenery Which Attract Tourists with its Soil, Water, Atmosphere and Trees (SWAT) and thus is Soothing, Wonderful, Astonishing and Thrilling (SWAT). Why?

In fact, Swat is naturally blessed with some peculiar commodities which inspired people to make the best use of it. That is why we find persistent interference of intruders, and thus abode of different nationalities, religions and races.

Archaeological remains are the hallmarks of the Swat Valley- Asia tallest statue of Buddha at Jehanabad; Buttkada (Gul kadda) where Asoka built large stupa enclave by 240 petty stupas at Mingora; Pir khashal tomb, the oldest village and Ghazanavi mosque at Odigram; remains(2500 BC) of Ghalligay include pictures of animals like ox, cow, horse, markhor, statue and a cave having relics of many past civilizations from Cro-Magnon to present time; stone engraving at Goghadra having figures of animals of period 2500 BC; broken earthenware of Aligrama, found to be of 1500 BC; a room at Barikot with round pillars and an oval grate for fire worship of Zoroasters; Stupa of Shangardar, remains of Nimogram in Shimazi Valley and Pantogram and Loy Nabtar in Jambeel Valley (From relics of Loy Nabtar archaeologists guessed it to be the first dwelling place of Aryans when they came here ; famous fort of Alexander “Massaga” and Churchill Choki at Chakdara; The koh-e-Elam where Rama Chandra spent 14 years of his exile and Alexander climbed to top to hold a star Jupiter; Akbar’s fort at Damkot hills; rock carving representing the Bodhisattva Padampani (8^th BC) at Chakri discovered by Professor Gopi Toosi of Itly in 1955; above all Swat museum, erected with the help of Japanese, at Mingora which has seven galleries containing excellent Ghandhara scriptures arranged in manner to depict the Buddha’s entire life; terracotta figurine and utensil, beads, coins, weapons, etc. The ethnographic section displays the marvelous skill of embroidery, carved wood and tribal Jewelry. The newly discovered Spiritual Stone at Sappal bandi having carved name of Muhammad (PBUH).There are tabbarkat (sanctified remnants) of Muhammad (PBUH),Hazrat Usman RA, Hazrat Ali RA and other august religious personalities at Noor Mahal near Chak Dara.

In fact, first survey of Swat was conducted by a famous archaeologist Sir Aural Stein (1862-43) and some places was dug but without great success as the work was not carried on scientifically. Then in 1956 Pakistan Archaeological Department in collaboration with Italian government started work on scientific level and achieved success. Ironically, many statues, jewelry, items, etc were taken legally or illegally to adorn museums of England, Germany, Italy, Japan, Korea and Pakistan, thus, depriving the de facto heirs.

Buildings: The land is filled with tombs of saints who devoted their entire lives to propagate Islam and to mould the lives of masses according to Shariah (Islamic code of life).There are Saidu Baba Tomb (Saidu Sharif); Gul Abdul Wadood Tomb (Aqba, Saidu Sharif) build on pattern of Akbar’s tomb; Deri Baba Tomb (Deri, Maghazar); Leuno Pir Tomb (Shanglayar); Baijur Baba Tomb (Baijuray); Shaikh Baba Tomb (Malam Jabba); Mian Baba Tomb (Marghazar road); Noor Baba Tomb (Marghazar road); Mian Karim Dad Baba Tomb (Kanju); Qaim Baba Tomb ( Matta); the famous tomb of Pir Khushal and tombs of two sons of Ghaznavi (Odigram) ;etc. There were 33 forts during the reign of Gul Abdul Wadood. The famous one is Barikot Fort, Odigram fort, Manglor fort as they are mentioned by historians of Alexander time. Some ruined forts cum palaces are present at Manglor, Mengora,Damghaz, Jambeel, etc. Among palaces; the White Palace of Marghazar built by Gul Abdul Wadood, the marble used in the palace have significance, coming from the same quarry that supplied the Taj Mahal; Palace of Aqba at Aqba,Saidu Sharif; Palace at Saidu Sharif (now Serena Hotel).There are many mosques ,e.g. Saidu Baba Mosque at Saidu Sharif, made of marble and other stone with two big minarets and four robust pillars ; the Sandal Mosque of Kalam, all built by wood especially Sandal. But now its roof has been replaced with concrete and have a big hearth to provide heat in cold winter; an ancient mosque of wood in village of Atror. It is made of wood and has marvelous engraving and wood work. There is minaret in Aqba, built by Gul Abdul Wadood, on a pattern of Qutub Minar Delhi.

Hill Stations and Valleys: There are numerous hill stations and valleys. Marghazar is 16km from Saidu Sharif and famous for white palace and the way to Koh-e-Elam is just 4 hours trekking from the White Palace. Jambeel valley is near Mingora. Pantogram is situated in this valley that is famous for archaeological sites and industry. Malam Jabba, a hill station of 9200 ft height, situated in Karakoram Range and is built with Austrian help. It is 40 km from Saidu Sharif. It is the home of the largest ski resort and a ski slope of about 800m. Miandam is a small resort 10 km up a steep side valley and 56 km from Saidu Sharif. Madyan is 60 km from Mengora. Here mountains close in and the valley is almost a snug. It is famous from embroidery of shawl (sheet used as veil by women). It has height of 4359 ft. It houses a big hatchery and offers a beautiful scene of Bashigram Mountain and blue water of Bashigram River. Here Swat River and Bashigram River meet to present a wonderful scene.

Behrain is another famous resort about 70km from Saidu Sharif, having height of 4500ft. Its oldest name is ‘Bhonal’ and ‘Branial’.

Kalam is 90km from Saidu Sharif and has height of 7343ft. It is the most beautiful spot of Swat. It is enclave by mountains from all sides and the newly born Swat river Shrieks like a nascent baby after its birth by the merger of the Ushu River and the Atror river. Zameer Jaffri said about Kalam:

jam tak aye, maye ghulfam tak aye nahi

Jo Swat tak aye, magar Kalam tak aye nahi

(People who came to Swat Valley and didn’t visit Kalam are equivalent to those who held the bowl of flower wine but didn’t taste it.)

Kalam is a launching pad for going to Atror Valley (15km from Kalam) and then advance further 5km to land in Gibral Valley. If one moves 8km toward east of Kalam, the beautiful Ushu Valley welcomes you with open arm. After 3 km from Ushu, starts Mataltan Valley with a beautiful waterfall and then a big glacier ,if ,one move 35 km from Mataltan, Mahudand lake(9000ft) will welcome with blue carpet and tasty trout and here, snow covered Falak Ser will embrace his head with motherly affection.

Lakes: There are 52 lakes in Swat .The famous one are Pari lake, Kundol lake, Bashigram lake, Neel Sar lake, Spin khor lake, Khar Khari lake, Mahudand lake, Shandur lake, Daral lake, Mankial lake, Bari Baba lake, Panashai lake, etc. They are accessible and present a picturesque scene and trance for the viewers.

Rivers: There are many rivers. Abbasine (Sind) River traverses 50km distance in Swat Valley. However, Swat River is the longest, heart pleasing and is jugular vein of fertility of the Swat Valley. It has many names Swastoos, Swaltasi, Swastass and White River. The other rivers are Oshu, Gibral, Khawaza Khela, Manglore, Jambeel, Marghazar, Miandam, Madyan, Bashigram, Shahpure, Panashi, etc.

Water Falls: There are many waterfalls: Shahi Banal, Kiran Gah, Shanar, Arad Gial and Ochar are famous. Ochar is very well-known as it falls from the height of 1500ft.

Glaciers: There is a big glacier near Mataltan. Many tourists visit this glacier, enjoy surrounding canopy of different mountains and remain here for the whole day. There are many glaciers at Kargloo and other places too.

Springs: There are abundant springs containing naturally filtered water and have great digestive ability. Some springs contains minerals and plants extract and act as natural medicine for intestine, skin, bones, etc. Such springs are present at Saidu Sharif, Bahrain and a very famous spring “Shifa Spring” near Falak Ser.

Mountains: Swat Valley is situated at meeting place of Hindu Kush Range and Karakorum Range. These mountains have peaks and passages. The famous are is Koh-e-Falk Seer (20,000 ft) and welcomes visitors when they land in Kalam city. Koh-i- Manakial is near Bahrain, it has height of 19000 ft. Koh e Elam (10,000ft) is a boundary between Swat and Buner.

Passes: There are many passes: Mukhozi pass which connects Gokand with Baboozi. It is 10,000 ft high. There is a beautiful pass of Karakar between Swat and Buner with height of 4000 ft. The Shaghla pass connects Swat Valley (khwaza Khaila) to Shangla. It has height of 7000 ft.

Tops: The famous tops are White Hill, Falak Ser, Mankial top (20000ft), Shal Khosar (11,000 ft), Malam Jabba(9000ft) and Pir Sar in Chakesar is famous for Alexander’s invasion.

Location of Swat is important. Valley lied on the old transit road between Central Asia and China via Gilgit. So its location made it significant. It lies in front of corridors of Hindu Kush that made it strategically and economically important.

Health Resort: The climate of Swat is naturally bestowed with health giving property. Apart from a recreational spot, it is also a health resort with it sanitary milieu. Water of Swat River is considered natural medicine, having special health restoring power.

River Bashigram is blue like Robin’s egg and its water is also considered as natural medicine.

Medicinal Plants: In Atror and Gibral, 44 medicinal plants are collected just in four months. Only 14 of them are used in national and international markets, the rest are used locally.

It is reported by Forest Department that 75 crude herbal drugs are extensively exported and about 200 are locally traded in Pakistan. Swat is enriched with medicinal plants which have great health as well as economic importance if they are harvested, stored and transported properly.

Wild life of Swat has great diversity; one finds galloping hares, cunning foxes, fool Jackals, mimicry monkeys, furious wolfs, etc.

One finds precious hawk, eagle and falcon on high mountains, and hears the songs of nightingale, lark, quail, dove and enjoy the silence of swallows. Then partridge, starling, vulture, owl, bat and crows embellish the atmosphere.

Honey: Pure honey of Swat is famous all over the country. But newly introduced moveable bee-hives have greatly influenced the locally reared bees.

Trout: Swat is famous for a delicious and rare fish trout. There are about 35 hatcheries in Swat in addition to natural habitat of rivers and lakes. The Mahudand Lake is famous for trout hunting. Trout is good for heart; eyes and reproductive system. Swat has turned into industry of trout.

Trees: There is great variety of trees. The presence of sandal, olive and saffron is reported by Chinese travelers in their travelogues. Pinus roxburgia, pines longiflia, deodar, cedrus, cypress, poplar are extensively found. Some famous herbs are Soma bootti, and ghuchi. There is mushroom growth of famous flower Nameer near Koh-e-Elam.

Fruit: One finds apple, apricot, walnut, peach, grapes, pear, fig, persimmon (edible fruit of American or East Asian tree of genus Diospyros), plum, strawberry, grapes, etc. About 60% of fruit used in Pakistan comes from Swat. So, for us, it is a fruit basket. Soma bootti is very popular and its juice is considered beverage of the paradise. Similarly juice of Ghuchi is internationally famous, it is exported to France.

Grassland: In the plain area of Valley, one finds lush green field yielding cereals, fodders apart from portraying the image of grassland. The prairies of Kalam Bhoin, Kalam kas, Kalam Khas, Ariyani, Ashoran, Kargloo are worth seeing and bewitching.

Mineral: Swat is rich in mineral wealth but the discovered commodities are much fewer than actual reservoirs. Top three minerals are China clay, marble and emerald. China clay is found at Kathyar in NekpiKheil; a place 15 km from Mingora. Marble is found at Marghazar, Charbagh, Barikot. Emerald is found in Mingora city; it has fine quality, good colour and transparency and thus makes it unique in the world. According to Mining Dept, “There exists export potential of 500-600 million dollars in this sector, provided it is excavated and cut per international standards”. Soap clay is recently discovered between Alpurai and Kanra on the side of Gilgit Road. In market other precious stones of pukhraj (topaz), yaqoot(ruby),kanrite (granite), neelum(sapphire),amethyst, etc, and their jewelry is available.

Handicraft: Hands of Swatti people have magic that weave wool and silk into Sharai (blanket), Shawl(sheet), Rug(tradition carpet of shepherds),cap, coat, gloves, table sheet, pillow cover, etc. They are manufactured at Fatehpure, Bagh Deri, Shaikhala. But the village of Salampure is famous all over the country; it has hundreds of looms and skilled people. Asoka used to fetch shawl from Swat for his use.

Embroidery is another magic of Swatti hands. Panhey are old fashioned shoes of leather with golden laces; Shkor is pot to keep bread; there are different furniture items; chair, table, cot, cradle, etc. The wood of swat is not only durable but also suitable for woodworking.

Races and Religions: The historic stage of Swat witnessed many plays of different races Dravidian, Aryan, Iranian, Greek, Saka, Kushan, Hun, Hindu Shahi, Yousaf Zais, Akhunds, etc, and different religions Hinduism, Zoroastrianism, Buddhism and the magnanimous Islam.

Hospitality: The hospitality of Swatti people is unmatchable. I experienced many act of hospitableness which deserves to be mentioned. First, the side-mirror of my car was broken by a car-washer at Malam-Jabba. When I returned to Mingora and went to a spare parts shop. I took mirror and asked its price. The shopkeeper told me “Rs 600”. I requested for concession. He told, “It is of Rs 800 and you are guest. So I demanded Rs 600 what is its cost price”. Then I went to a dentar and asked him to fit the mirror. He was busy with another car; he left that and fitted the mirror. I inquired about labour charges. He said, “Nothing you are our guest.” In another incidence, I went to China Market of Mingora and bought three emergency lights of 1350 Rs. When, I opened my wallet to pay. I had little money in front pocket of wallet. The shopkeeper guessed I have run short of money. He said in jiffy, “no need of money”! I was astonished to hear this generosity. Then from other pocket of wallet, I extracted 5000 Rs note and gave to him with thanks. Third, I bought double bread, jam, yoghurt, bottle of soft drink, etc from the Punjab Sweet. When, I was to pay money. The owner of shop said, “Please take it as a gift”, I was stunned to hear this large hearted offer. I asked his name; “I am Haris Karim”. Then I paid the bill after a lot of debate and settlement on the condition that I would take bottle as a gift. Next day I gave him a present as quid pro quo. Fourth, It happened thrice during my four days stay at Mingora, that when I along with my wife and four children was about to cross a busy road. The traffic stopped on both sides to give us passage. We felt for a moment that we are living in any civilized city of Europe. Fifth, we went to see the tomb of Gul Abdul Wodood where we asked a rickshaw driver Niaz Muhammad about the tomb. He came along us up to tomb and then he also escorted us to Minaret and nearby forest and spring. He remained with us as a “guide” for about two hours. When we offered him thanks and wanted to depart, he said please have a cold drink and forcibly compelled us to have a drink. We bought some sweets and biscuits and gave him with a lot of requests for his children .He refused and on third party’s intervention, he reluctantly accepted. Sixth, during our visit to White Palace, manager of the hotel Naveed Awan showed us every inch of palace and presented tea. He offered thrice for dinner which we refused. Seventh, it happened with me four times that I gave passage to a vehicle to pass. In return, the driver of vehicle waved his hands in thanks. Apart from these, there is a lot of respect of “female”. No one dare to molest female, a problem which we often face in Lahore and other parts of the Punjab. Another point of mention is that if there is road blockage, no vehicle breaks the lane as a result traffic runs smoothly. These virtues forced me to change my opinion about Pathans and in a meeting with an elderly Pathan at Malam Jabba, I inquired of him, there are many jokes circulating about the stupidity and irrational behavior of Pathans but I have found “Pathans” otherwise. He said the Pathans who are engaged in fighting, show polishing and show stupidity are not Swatti Pathan, and they have different origin, clan and display low morality. We also feel ashamed of about their ridiculous behavior. The hospitality and nobility of character exhibited by Swatti people is the biggest allurement for the visitors.

Swat is the crown of nature on earth, studded with the jewels of archaeological allotropy, magnanimity of buildings, enchanting beauty of hill stations and valleys, nimbly streams, gushy falls, a roaring rivers, cool clean water of springs, sky high mountains, green curly passes, snowy peaks, healthy milieu, diversity of wild life, delicious fruits, precious minerals, crafty handicrafts, miraculous medicinal shrubs, abode of various races, durable wood, everlasting Ghadhara, serenity of area ,soothing climate and above all exemplary hospitality, cordiality and helpfulness of its people. These jewels of terrain and trait attract people, when someone gets struck in trance of any one particular jewel, he names Swat for that very specialty. That is why we find too many epithets. So, the mesmerizing scenery of Swat attracted me to an extent, a plump of thought came in my mind that SWAT is an abbreviation of Scenery Which Attract Tourists with its Soil, Water, Atmosphere and Trees (SWAT) and thus is Soothing, Wonderful, Astonishing and Thrilling (SWAT)!

That is how new epithets come into existence!