WHY KINGS LOVED TO VISIT SWAT VALLEY?

WHY KINGS LOVED TO VISIT SWAT VALLEY?

PROF WAQAR HUSSAIN

Khushal Khan Khattak, a great Pushto poet, once said: “Swat Valley fills the hearts of kings with happiness.” Why he said so? One needs to ponder it! To answer the question, first, go through the long list of kings and other distinguished persons who visited this Valley.

Aryan religious scripture “Riga Veda” states that Aryan who originated from the prairielands of Central Asia and entered through the corridor of Hindu Kush, first, settled at Swat and started singing bhajan (hymn). In other holy book of Aryan “Mahabharata”, we find mention of Swat River as Sawasto, being regarded as a sacred river.

Hindu has special reverence for Swat Valley. They believe Rama Chandra spent the period of 14 years exile at Mount Elam (10000ft) Swat, so they consider this mountain a sacred one. The Rama Takht (seat of Ram) is worth seeing even today. According to Hindu mythology, Swat is in the centre of the world. Near this mountain, there is a mushroom growth of a unique red coloured, eatable flower named Namer. The Hindu considers this flower very sacred. The above episode, if true, proves that Ram’s heart must be filled with happiness as he spent 14 years here.

In Judaism, the word Swat means paradise, no farther details are available.

Archaeologists have disclosed that swat was socially, economically, cultural, trade wise an enriched valley before the advent of Aryans. Remains discovered at Ghallegay have close resemblance to that of Indus Civilization. That is why, its archaeology age is determined 2400 BC to 5^th AD.

A renowned king of Iran, Darius heart must be filled with happiness by employing the brave and courageous people of Swat in his army. His heart must be filled with happiness when he imported stones and wood of Swat to build and adorn his palace.

Alexander the Great, the king of Macedonia, invaded Swat in 327 BC and fought an important battle of Udegram and Barikot identified in accounts as Ora and Bazira respectively. He also fought many other battles and conquered a large chunk of the valley. According to natives of Swat, the brave Swatti offered tough resistance and fought with so courage that Alexander had to come on peace term. Here in Swat, he uttered a historical statement, “Oh! My mother, you have given birth to one Alexander. But here, one finds Alexander behind every rock.” Alexander was great admirer of bravery so his heart must have been filled with pleasure.

Years after Alexander’s invasion, his follower Selenkos handed over the conquered parts of Swat Valley to Chandar Gupt Maurya. Asoka a powerful king of Maurya dynasty sowed the seed of Buddhism in the valley.

Fahein (399-414), Chinese pilgrim, reported that Buddha Visited Swat. There is a tradition that when Buddha came to Swat from northern India, he left a foot print on a stone. This mark of foot doesn’t look to every one of same size; larger for the more dedicated Buddhists and smaller for the lesser ones.

Fahein called Swat Odhyna meaning garden. He reported another tradition: “When Buddha visited here in his previous life, he donated his eyes to a blind person”. He quoted another tradition: “there is a place Taksha Sela (meaning cutting of head), Buddha in his last life, in embodiment of Bhudastwa chopped his head for a person. So this place came to be known as Takha sella”.

There is Asia tallest statue of Buddha at Jehanabad, Swat. There is a folklore that Buddha visited this mound of Jehanabad and delivered a lecture to people, gods and goddesses, advising them to tread on right path. When Buddha departed, by miracle, a stupa of few boulders appeared. Veracity of these traditions is not known.

Asoka who turned Buddhist after the battle of Kalinga, in which one lakh people were killed, also visited Swat. He built Butt Kadda place of worship in Mingora. Now it is called Gul Kadda. In the centre there is a large stupa, surrounded by 240 mini stupas. What is stupa? It is reported that the ash of Buddha’s dead body was buried in 84000 stupas, so one can say it is a tomb of Buddha. Worshipper saunters around the dome shapped stupa and also glances at the pictures engraved on the stupa that portray the whole life of Buddha. So stupa can also be regarded as stone inscribed biography of Buddha. On the top of Stupa, there is series of seven canopies representing seven skies.

Asoka was deeply impressed by the natural beauty and serenity of the area that he regard it Odhyna. One tradition is that Asoka built a garden and named it Odhyna (Asoka’s garden). Asoka felt it is a good place for meditation. So, he permanently settled here and died near Bahrain. His heart must have been filled with happiness that he decided so.

In fact, Swat warmly welcomed Buddhism as if flourished and prospered much greater here than the place where it got birth. Thus Swat became the cradle of Buddhism and often referred as land of Stupas. The Buddh Sani(successor of Buddh) Padma Sambo or Rim Poochi was inhabitant of Swat. Swat provided a launching pad for Buddhism and enabled her to spread to the other corners of the world.

Buddhists believe that the last Buddha Ameeta Bassi will emanate from Swat and will bestow peace and tranquility to the entire world. Buddhism spread in Swat in 200 BC, gained ground in Asoka reign, dominated up to 900 AD and then started declining when the glare of Islam dazzled all the elements of infidelity.

Fahein (337-422) Chinese pilgrim visited Swat in 403 AD and reported existence of 500 monasteries which were originally 1400 but most were damaged due to invader or earthquake.

Xuang Zang (602-664) another Chinese pilgrim visited Swat in 630 AD. He recounted a legend of Bahrain in travelogues when a dragon destroyed the crops by controlling the rains. It was the punishment for villagers as they reduced size of tribute to the kings. He reported worship places of Buddhism are dilapidated and the followers of Buddhism are practicing magic and witch craft.

Mahmood Ghaznavi was probably the first Muslim ruler to invade Swat in 1001 AD. He fought a fierce battle at Udegram and defeated the strong army of Raja Girra. The Commander of Ghaznavi, Pir Khushal Baba martyred in the battle. His tomb is still reminding us the first advent of Muslim in this area. Thus Ghaznavi planted the seed of Islam, which later on flourished and blossomed to a towering tree. In 1985, an Italian archaeologist uncovered a mosque of Ghaznavi period.

Chenghis Khan and Timur traversed the valley during Mongol Invasion in 1300-1400 AD.
In 1500, Babur came to Swat. Gibaris Tajik were residing here after defeating Buddhist and Hindu. Later on some Dilazaks encroached the area and settled among Gibris who in turn were ousted by Yusuf Zais which were backed by Babur. So Babur‘s heart must be filled by the victory and the beauty of Swat as he was epicurean.

Akbar invaded Swat in 1586 AD but was unlucky to be defeated in spite of strong army. His heart must have not been filled with happiness. However, Akbar was successful in building a massive fort at Damkot hills. This might have given him some consolation.

Sir Winston Churchill visited Swat in 1897 as a young (24 year) columnist of the Daily Telegraph when he dispatched from the top of Damkot hill overlooking the beautiful valley and the Chakdara Fort. (the Dawn report).

According to Mustansar Hussain Tarar, “there is a Choki after But Khaila, where Winston Churchill used to watch/ guard the movement of enemy’s troops. Churchill was so afraid of Pathan’s attack that he started drinking brandi (a variety of alcohol) here”.

Famous British historian Arnold Toynbee spent few days in Swat that he recorded in travelogue “Between Oxus and Jumna”. Toynbee admired Wali of Swat by saying “he had resemblance with 18^th century broadminded European king”.

Muhammad Perwaish Shaheen mentioned in his book on Swat that there are graves of Israeli Prophets in Swat. If it is true, then, even prophets were attracted by this area.

Queen Elizabeth of Great Britain visited Swat in 1961 and stayed at White Palace for three days as she discovered the deep tradition and history which surround the swat valley.

There is long list of dignitaries who visited Swat. For instance; Hungarian-British Archaeologist Mare Aural Stein( 1862-43), Roman Geographer Pliny (b.23 AD), Professor Eagermont, Greek traveler Irian, D K Mehta (2004, an Indian commissioner), Murtaza Bhuttoo, Pir Sabir Shah(ex-Chief Minister of Khyber Pakhtoonkhwa), Abdul Aziz Mirza (2002) Chief of Naval Staff , Justice Rana Baghwan Das (2004) Justice Javed Iqbal (2004), etc.

Why Kings loved to visit Swat? This valley has numerous characteristic features, in fact, it is a glittering necklace of shining emerald green valleys, snow covered soaring mountains, jade green prairies, diamonds of multicoloured fruits -all are studded on the swirling white Swat River which serpents over hilly course with roar trying to release itself from the fetters, but on other places, it is as silent as star and perfectly at ease.

Swat valley has history of manifold dimension, archaeological diversity of remains, blooming fields, thick forests, fruit laden prostrating trees, melodious song of birds, brazen brown bawdy mountains to green lofty mountains, ice capped peaks, nimbly streams, gushing falls, angry growling speedy rivers, cool springs, etc.

Moderate climate, crystal clean cool water, precious minerals, everlasting and luminous Ghandhara, unique emerald, white dazzling marble, durable wood, house of many races; Dravidian, Aryan, Iranian, Greek, Turk, Saka, Kushan, etc ; place of many religions Hinduism, Buddhism, Zoroastrianism and finally the eternal Islam.

Swat is an area of attraction for anthropologist, theologian, geologist, mineralogist, botanist, zoologist, chemist, linguist, ethnologist, forester, horticulturist, agriculturist, pisciculturist, floriculturist, etc.

Water of Swat River is considered natural medicine and has special convalescing power that is why now it is exported to other area and a plant “Swat Mineral Water” has been set up. Swat is a health resort with its hygienic environment so it is a divine sickbay for the patients.

Swat has hill stations like Marghazar, Malam Jabba, Miandam, Madyan, Bahrain, Kalam,etc. Each has something special.Geographic location is very vital now and in past. Swat valley once lied on the old transit road between China and Central Asia through Gilgit.

Swat is at the foot of mountain ranges connecting the Hindu Kush with the Karakoram. The Creator has been gracious and benevolent regarding natural beauty and serenity. God bestowed Swat fascinating landscape, captivating atmosphere, crystal clear water, diverse fauna and flora, mesmerizing lakes, beauty of all altitudes; top, mountain, valley, ditches, etc.

The valley is filled with unique fauna and flora. Hairs, fox, Jackal, wolf, hyenas, monkey, etc, are galloping in the woods. Trees of chir, deodar, cypress, etc, and fruits of apple, apricot, pear, peach, walnut, fig, etc. Soma botti has great popularity, its juice is considered beverage of the paradise. Similarly, juice of Ghuchi is highly valuable and is exported to France.

Kings adored the landscape and coveted for its enriched multifarious blessings thus wished to keep it under their thumb. They found it amazingly charming in traversing the roadside route on horseback, leading their soldiers. The feeling of possession of such a precious land filled their hearts with happiness.

Or perhaps, Khushal Khan Khattak wanted to say whosoever visits Swat valley, smells fragrance of flower, taste the fruits, feel the soothing cool breeze, see the picturesque sites, listen the melodious songs of birds and the snarling of rivers, thus appeasement of all senses made him feel, to be in the paradise and raises to the level of a king and for a moment, feels himself to be a king and his heart is filled with pleasure.

To me, SWAT is an abbreviation of Scenery Which Attract Tourists with its Soil, Water, Atmosphere and Trees (SWAT) and thus is Soothing, Wonderful, Astonishing and Thrilling (SWAT).